On an Island in the Sun

For the last two weeks, we planned on taking a big group trip to Culebra, one of the two smaller islands off the east coast of the main island.  The wan was rented.  Our bags were packed.  But Friday morning, just hours before we planned on leaving, we sat in the conference room debating if the trip would be worth it.  Relentless rains had barely let up all week.  Normally the coasts are much clearer than the mountain, but it had been raining heavily at the bottom of the hill too.  The weather service had forecast a fifty-percent chance of scattered showers in Culebra.  Some people were concerned about camping in the rain, but I was looking forward to this trip so much that I was willing to brave a little rain.  Thankfully we decided to take our chances.

Seth drove us to the ferry in Fajardo, where cloudy skies still spit at the earth.  We bought tickets and waited to board the ferry.  Before anyone embarked at all, the ferry pulled away from the dock!  The ferry was sitting too high in the water for cars to drive up the ramp, so it left to top of the fuel tanks and hopefully weigh it down.  With rain still plaguing the coast, we finally boarded.  Some of us stayed on the top deck to watch the cars load via the dangerously steep and slippery ramp.  It was impressively entertaining.

Surprisingly, the little Corolla had no problem with the ramp, unlike the black Toyota near the bottom which took three attempts and at one point we were pretty sure it was going to roll its self.

Just before leaving port, the sun broke through the clouds.  I was relieved to see a break in the weather. An hour later, we approached the dock in Culebra. The low angle of the sun reflected off the few clouds left in the sky, casting a gorgeous array of color over a sailboat-dotted bay.

Welcome to Culebra!

We found a shuttle van near the port to drive us and all of our gear to the campground on Playa Flamenco.  We picked a campsite and got our tents set up just before the sun dipped below the horizon.  The clouds had cleared, and we took a walk along the shoreline under a nearly full moon.  In the moonlight, the crescent shaped beach was one the the most tranquil places that I have ever been.  The sand felt soft under my bare feet.  The waves lapped gently at the shore.  Chris, Rachel, Sheffin, and I sat on the beach a little while longer after everyone else went to bed.  We barely spoke to each other.  Words seem unnecessary.  Vast expanses of water always have a way of hypnotizing me.

I slept surprisingly well that night.  Unlike our last camping trip, I didn't freeze!  The temperature was delightful.  In the daylight, I finally saw how picture perfect Playa Flamenco is.  A white sand beach adorned with palm trees hugs the cerulean blue bay.  I'm not surprised that it ranks among the top beaches in the world.  It was perfect for a morning swim and lounging in the sun.

My morning walk on Playa Flamenco

After a quick lunch, we walked over a mine field to Carlos Rosario beach.  That's right.  Culebra was formerly an uninhabited island used by the Navy for target practice.  A few tanks still stand on Playa Flamenco where they practiced amphibious landings including training for the invasion of Iwo Jima.  The trail to beach is guarded by a sign warning of potentially unexploded munitions in the area.  I decided not to stray too far from the path.

Festive paint job on one of the tanks at Playa Flamenco

Sheffin in the Danger Zone

Playa Carlos Rosario is gorgeous, and a lot less crowded than Playa Flamenco.  outside of a couple families, we were the only ones there.  Some of us snorkeled through the breathtaking reef that ran along the coast.  It's a much different habitat than the sea grasses in Guanica.  Fan, elkhorn, and brain corals create a forest on craggy offshore rocks with ample hiding places for colorful tropical fishes.  Andy and I snorkeled around the point of the bay to a deeper part of the reef.  I caught a glimpse of of something huge out the corner of my eye.  It was a sea turtle!  We watched it glide effortlessly through the water; then we headed back towards the beach.  What we didn't realize was how strongly the current flowed around the point.  Fighting the current on the way back exhausted both of us, but just finding the sea turtle was well worth the swim.

Playa Carlos Rosario

We packed our campsite late in the afternoon before catching a shuttle back to the ferry. Sheffin and I had unofficially declared this weekend "MicSheffles Fest" in honor of our upcoming birthdays.  While we waited for the shuttle we had a couple of rum drinks to celebrate.  With an icy beverage in my hand, I finally felt like I was on a true tropical adventure.  We returned to Fajardo after a pretty uneventful ferry ride.  I don't know if I'll have a chance to go back before I leave, but visiting Culebra again in itself would be worth the return trip to Puerto Rico.  One night was far from enough.  I'm so glad we made the trip happen and can't believe we almost cancelled it.  All over a little rain that never came.

Raging River

Yesterday, Silvia and I spent the morning in the field with the contingency of finishing data entry inside if the rain interfered with seedling work.  It started to pour around lunchtime, so we started our hike out of the grid.  It wasn't the most severe rain we've experienced. But the Sonadora said otherwise.  As we got close to the river, we could see it raging violently over the rocks.  I checked the stream gage at the bridge.  Normally it is at 3.4 feet.  Now, in just a few hours it had risen to 6.5 feet!  It looked so spectacular that I had to hike back with my camera.  Here are the before and after pictures:

Normal Stream flow - January 26, 2012

View from the bridge - March 28, 2012

In the forest, it didn't seem like very much rain, but it must have been falling more heavily higher up the mountain.  It felt very surreal to stand on the bridge as the water raced below me.  I cross that bridge every day, but this time I felt so much smaller.  Like I could be swept away any minute.  Sometimes, there is nothing so humbling as nature in full force.

Oh, I'll give you a "Cheeseburger in Paradise"....

Nestled in the Luquillo kioskos is a restaurant.  One among many.  But if you ever find yourself in Puerto Rico, it is the only one you need to know.  Its a little bar and grill.  No doors or walls on the front or back; you can easily see the crashing waves of the Atlantic ocean.  The tables have empty six-packs as condiment caddies, and there are an abundance of Sharpies to draw on nearly any open surface.  It's casual and welcoming with just a hit of grime.  This is el Jefe Burger Shack.

Tonight a few of us escaped to Luquillo for dinner.  I've been told about the magic of el Jefe, and this was my first encounter.  I loved the atmosphere immediately, but would my burger live up to expectations?  Our waitress took our drink orders.  My mojito was perfect.  Perfect, I tell you!  Minty, limey, slightly sweet, intoxicatingly perfect.  And the beers that the others ordered came in their own cozy little ice pails.

In case you were wondering, this is what a Mojito should look like.

Aaron with his ice cold Coors Light like a good Colorado boy 

Now we placed our orders.  I ordered a 1/3 pound burger, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, avocado, dill pickle, mayo.  Then came the clincher... the test of character...  I asked for it medium rare.  And she said, "Sure."  No hesitation.  No, "We're not really supposed to, but we'll do our best." No questions asked.  Yes.  And I substituted the fries for a side of nachos.  I've seen jaws drop and eyes widen just at the mention of these nachos.  Of course I had to experience them for myself.

And then we waited. And waited.  And waited.  And, my friend, you too will wait when you eat at el Jefe.  But let me tell you this, your wait will not be in vain.  The burger that was set before me was a thing of beauty.  But like any good burger, it was the first bite that got me hooked.  The toasted bun, the perfect balance of toppings, and just as I had requested... a pink medium rare center. Heavenly.

And then there are the nachos.... OOHHHHHH! the nachos.  All other nachos should bow down or cower in shame.  Crispy corn chips adorned with pico de gallo, avocado, and jalepeños.  But the cheese sauce, el Jefe cheese sauce made in house... I've tasted few things so delicious as this.  It took me a while, but I finally pinpointed what I think must the secret ingredient: 100% pure distilled euphoria.  When Jesus throws a party, these are the nachos he serves to his disciples.  All I want is to be buried under a pile of el Jefe nachos so I can eat my way out.  Yes, they are THAT good.

el Jefe Burger and Nachos of GLORY

Two months left on this island... you bet your sweet ass I'll eat at el Jefe again.

Saturday Mornings

I've come to enjoy spending quiet Saturday mornings at El Verde.  It gives me time to relax and focus on my thoughts.  Often they are calm reflections about my surroundings.  This morning was no exception.  A few of us shared breakfast on the porch outside the kitchen.  On this sunny day, we pondered how to fill the whole weekend ahead of us.

Just then, the light around us began to dim as clouds rolled over the mountains.  The sky became much too dark for 11 am.  Something was coming... We listened to a few songs on my computer, sharing new music with each other.  The wind picked up and swirled around the porch.  Something was close...  It looked as if today might be a good day to catch up on all of those movies we have been planning to watch.  

Finally the sky opened and released an intense morning shower.  Then it was over almost as soon as it began.  The birds started singing again, but judging by the look of the sky that won't be the last of today's precipitation.  It might be a good day for movies, but maybe it's also a good day to sit under the porch awning with a cup of tea watching the rain.

The view from the porch

Day Trip to Guanica

The best part about having friends all over the world its that I always have somewhere new to visit.  A few weeks ago, Greg moved to a new volunteer project after finishing his position at El Verde.  Now he lives close to Guanica, a city on the southern Caribbean coast of Puerto Rico.  On Sunday, Sheffin, Courtenay, Chris, Rachel and I rented a van and met Greg and his new group for a day at the beach.  

Sunday morning we left the station, stopped at Walgreens to grab some road snacks, then hit the highway.  After not getting behind a steering wheel for about two months, it felt amazing to drive that van.  We headed south through the mountains.  The last time we left on a road trip, it was already dark outside.  This morning the sun shined without a cloud in the sky, and we could see the central mountains around us.  As we made our way south, the landscape transitioned from rainforest to dry forest.  I'm always in awe how even across short distances, ecosystems can change so quickly.

We made it to Guayanilla in a little more than two hours and met Greg at his house.  He hopped in our van and we followed the whale crew to the beach in Guanica.  The beach here is a lot different than the one in Luquillo on the north side.  It was stunning to see both palm trees and cacti on the same beach.  The water was clear and beautiful, just how I remember the Caribbean from my trip to Belize.  Greg and I brought our snorkel gear and explored the sea grass beds close to shore.  When the waves rolled though the grasses, the blades undulated like they were blowing in the wind.  It felt so tranquil and almost hypnotic.

Even though the habitat seems so simple, just blades of grass in the sand, it teemed with a variety of tangs, wrasses, parrot fish, urchins, anemones, and a couple of sea stars.  Snorkeling confirmed that I belong in tropical coastal ecology.  I love the transition from mangrove to sea grass to coral reef, three vastly different ecosystems that are so integral to each other.  With each work experience, I try to inch my way closer.  Someday I'll get there.

It was late in the afternoon and we were getting ready to leave... right when the rain clouds started rolling in.  Perfect timing!  Greg's new boss was nice enough to host us at their house for dinner.  We all stopped at the store and picked up burgers to throw on the grill.  We ended up hanging out at the house a lot longer than we expected.  I think Greg was happy they didn't have to get back to work as early as the boss let on, and it was fun to meet some new people and see how different field operations work.

Finally, it was time to head back home.  We said our goodbyes to Greg and set out towards El Verde.  I think we all needed this trip.  Even though it was just for the day, its always recharging to get away from station life for a bit.  And, of course, it was great to see Greg again.  We barely spoke on the way back to the station, but we were all in agreement about our trip.  Chris summed it up best: It was a day of unadulterated excellence.

Chris, Sheff, me, and Greg on a gorgeous day in Guanica

Boardriders

Getting to travel places on the island has taken some creativity.  Initially the station had a 12 passenger van and a Jeep Cherokee owned by the University.  Seth is the only grad student who is authorized to drive the vehicles for "official" business, which grocery shopping loosely fell under.  Only a couple weeks after I got here, both cars suffered major mechanical issues, and neither have been repaired yet (hello "island time").

In many ways this has been a blessing.  We've had a rental van every weekend since, and Seth is able to drive us to places other than just the grocery store.  Last week we went to the electronic music fest, but we can even just go out for drinks which we couldn't do before.  This weekend we had a 15 passenger Ford van instead of a mini van.  Friday night we were all able to pile in together and drive to a bar in Luquillo called Boardriders.  Its a chill place with a large patio in front that looks over the Atlantic Ocean.  Attached is a stand that rents surfboards and offers lessons that I would love to take advantage of someday.

I can't stress enough how great it was to unwind and have a few beers with the crew outside of the station.  It's something I really miss doing with my friends back home.  Hopefully, we'll get to hang out near the coast for drinks more often.  It's the simple things that make all the difference.

Let's Bungle in the Jungle!

When I think about the rainforest, typically I conjure images of lush vegetation, singing birds, isolation from civilization.  Rarely if ever do pulsing bass and and light shows come to mind.  But that's exactly what we found last Saturday.  Alejandro called Aaron in the afternoon and asked if anyone else was interested in heading to an Electronic music fest in Rio Grande. Of course I told him to count me in.

A group of us left the station around 10 pm.  Now, when I heard Rio Grande, I imagined it would be somewhere in town.  But at the end of the station's driveway, we turned left and drove up the hill instead of down.  Where are we going?!  We turned down another road that I have run past a dozen times.  After winding a little further through he mountains, we saw a line of cars waiting to turn off the road.  We followed them and were directed to the parking area.  It was up a steep hill in a muddy clearing.

Since both of the station vehicles have been in for repairs, Seth was able to drive us in the rental van.  However, the little Kia mini van wasn't exactly equipped to handle off-road conditions.  It got stuck at least twice while trying to find an open space to park.  At one point we briefly considered lifting and pivoting the back end of a crookedly parked Honda del Sol to make space.  But another spot eventually opened up.  It took a few multipoint turns and a lot of pushing to finally get the van parked in that disaster of a lot.

Ruts in the mud left by our van.

The festival was actually at the Rio Grande Plantation, a resort in the middle of the rainforest.  There were three separate stages with different DJs performing through the night.  We wandered between the three and danced until well after 2 am, but the show was scheduled until 6 am!  I guess that's the definition of "all night rager." After a little more tire spinning and mud flinging, we pointed the van towards home.  We could still hear the music as we drove away.  Even the coquis seemed to chirp in rhythm to dupstep wafting through the tabonuncos.  You really never know what you'll find in the jungle!

Alejandro and Aaron stroll through the Bass Jungle