Mom and Dad Visit Puerto Rico: Part 2

On Saturday, we drove to the west side of the Island to visit the Aricebo Observatory, home to the world's largest satellite receiver dish.  The observatory is in the middle of karst country, eroded limestone formations shaped like haystacks.  This landscape was perfect to build the receiver.  A sinkhole depression was they perfect size, and they didn't need to do any digging.  The large dish reflects signals into another receiver that is suspended above, and the signals travel through fiber optic cables to a lab on the other side of the hill.  One of the main projects is the search for intelligent life elsewhere in outer space, but several other important discoveries have come from the observatory.  I knew my engineer dad would think it was really cool, but we were all impressed.  The dish was was also featured in a James Bond movie.  That's right... its Goldeneye!

Goldeneye!

My mom and me being a little silly

We stopped in Old San Juan on the way back from Arecibo.  It was the frist time I had seen the city in the daylight.  The colonial Spanish architecture is really pretty.  My mom said that's how she imagined streets in Europe.  There are also two old forts on the north coast.  We walked around Castillo de San Cristobal.  The views of the ocean were beautiful.  I was amazed by the size of the fort.  It seemed like you could easily get lost below ground!  After getting a pizza from Pirilos, this great Italian place, we walked to Castillo San Felipe del Morro.  It was a breezy evening, and the park was filled with kids flying kites. We watched the sun set behind the fort.  The coast of Old San Juan was stunning at night.  It was a great end to the day.

Old San Juan as seen from San Crisobal

El Morro soon after sunset

Old San Juan at dusk

Mom and Dad Visit Puerto Rico: Part 1

After along day of traveling from Chicago, my parents finally made it to Puerto Rico.  Thursday evening, they navigated their way from San Juan to El Verde.  I gave them a quick tour of their station before leaving for Luquillo.  It was a beautiful night to have dinner on the patio at Boardriders, and our hotel was just a couple blocks away.  The Luquillo Sunrise Inn is an adorable bed and breakfast.  Each room has a balcony facing the Atlantic Ocean.  At night we left balcony door cracked open and could hear the waves crash on the beach.

The view from the hotel room

Friday morning I was surprised to sleep in!  For as many family vacations as I can remember, my dad wanted us awake at the crack of dawn.  Now he was the one dragging his heels!  After breakfast we explored the touristy part of El Yunque.  Several vistas and short trails dot an eight-kilometer road that winds up a mountain.  Past waterfalls and overlooks, we found ourselves in the cloud forest.  At the highest elevations, the mountain is almost constantly topped with clouds.  We walked through a thick mist to a lookout tower.  At the top, the clouds broke just long enough to take a picture of the coast before they encompassed us again.  The gray mist in the mountains made me feel like I was on the edge of the world.

My dad and me at Coco Falls

On the Mt. Britton Tower in the cloud forest

After a day of hiking, we relaxed at the hotel for a bit before our nighttime adventure in Fajardo; a kayak tour of the bioluminescent bay.  The bay has perfect conditions to support tiny aquatic creatures called dinoflagellets. When disturbed, these microorganisms emit a blue-green light, similar to the way fireflies glow.  Only a handful of these bays exist worldwide, and three of them are found in Puerto Rico.

The tour started at the harbor in Fajardo.  The biologists guided us across the harbor and into a mangrove canal.  Under the mangrove canopy was pitch black.  Barely any moonlight made its way through the leaves, and I could only see the lights on my parents’ kayak ahead of me.  I glanced down at my paddles as I moved them through the water.  Faintly, I began to see trails of light as paddled.  The trails became brighter and brighter the closer we got to the bay.  We emerged from the canal into the calm lagoon where the biologists talked more about the dinoflagellets. Then we got to paddle around the bay on our own.  I couldn’t believe how bright the bay was as we moved through the water.  Its subtle beauty amazed me.

Our group paddled back to the harbor through the mangrove canal.  When we pulled off to the side and let another tour group pass, we could see the tiny creatures spark as they bumped into the mangrove roots.  It reminded me of shooting starts or fireworks.  Back at the harbor, my parents and I shared a chicken pincho (read: tasty grilled meat on a stick) as a snack after our adventure. Then it was back to Luquillo for the night.  Not a bad start to our adventures at all!

Festival del Tinglar

On Saturday, the town square in Luquillo hosted Festival del Tinglar.  It's a celebration of the sea turtles that nest in the beaches along the northeastern shore this time of year.  Like the other festivals, this one was flooded with artisans.  I bought a stained wood burning of a coqui that will look great in my next living room (where ever that may be).  Outside of the artisans and pincho stands, there were several tents with information about conservation efforts in the Northeast Ecological Corridor.  Unfortunately, I didn't spend much time in the tents since my Spanish is still pretty rusty.  But they did a nice job of having a variety of interactive displays and activities for kids to learn about the animals in their own backyards.  Community support is so important to achieving conservation goals.  Outreach programs like this one help build awareness within the community, encouraging them to feel a deeper connection to their environment.

We spent a few hours at the festival and then had a couple beers at Boardriders.  All day different bands played on a stage at the festival, and we were sticking around to see the headliner, Cultura Profetica, a Puerto Rican reggae band.  To be honest, I didn't really feel like staying for the show.  I was tired and it was getting cold, windy, and threatened to rain.  But I didn't really have an option.  I was at the mercy of our driver and the rest of the group.

No one really knew when the band was supposed to take the stage.  In true island fashion, everyone had a different answer.  We wandered back to the town center as they finally started their sounds check.  That was when the shit hit the fan.  The winds picked up and crazy gusts started blowing the rain sideways.  What was once a sea of people quickly became huddled masses as people took refuge under tents and umbrellas.  Crew members covered the giant amplifiers with plastic bags, and I wondered if they would have to cancel the show.  I was just thankful that I had at least brought my rain jacket.  Finally, the rain calmed down and the show started.  Although I didn't understand any of the Spanish lyrics, I actually really enjoyed show.  I was glad that we stayed, soaking jeans and all.

On an Island in the Sun

For the last two weeks, we planned on taking a big group trip to Culebra, one of the two smaller islands off the east coast of the main island.  The wan was rented.  Our bags were packed.  But Friday morning, just hours before we planned on leaving, we sat in the conference room debating if the trip would be worth it.  Relentless rains had barely let up all week.  Normally the coasts are much clearer than the mountain, but it had been raining heavily at the bottom of the hill too.  The weather service had forecast a fifty-percent chance of scattered showers in Culebra.  Some people were concerned about camping in the rain, but I was looking forward to this trip so much that I was willing to brave a little rain.  Thankfully we decided to take our chances.

Seth drove us to the ferry in Fajardo, where cloudy skies still spit at the earth.  We bought tickets and waited to board the ferry.  Before anyone embarked at all, the ferry pulled away from the dock!  The ferry was sitting too high in the water for cars to drive up the ramp, so it left to top of the fuel tanks and hopefully weigh it down.  With rain still plaguing the coast, we finally boarded.  Some of us stayed on the top deck to watch the cars load via the dangerously steep and slippery ramp.  It was impressively entertaining.

Surprisingly, the little Corolla had no problem with the ramp, unlike the black Toyota near the bottom which took three attempts and at one point we were pretty sure it was going to roll its self.

Just before leaving port, the sun broke through the clouds.  I was relieved to see a break in the weather. An hour later, we approached the dock in Culebra. The low angle of the sun reflected off the few clouds left in the sky, casting a gorgeous array of color over a sailboat-dotted bay.

Welcome to Culebra!

We found a shuttle van near the port to drive us and all of our gear to the campground on Playa Flamenco.  We picked a campsite and got our tents set up just before the sun dipped below the horizon.  The clouds had cleared, and we took a walk along the shoreline under a nearly full moon.  In the moonlight, the crescent shaped beach was one the the most tranquil places that I have ever been.  The sand felt soft under my bare feet.  The waves lapped gently at the shore.  Chris, Rachel, Sheffin, and I sat on the beach a little while longer after everyone else went to bed.  We barely spoke to each other.  Words seem unnecessary.  Vast expanses of water always have a way of hypnotizing me.

I slept surprisingly well that night.  Unlike our last camping trip, I didn't freeze!  The temperature was delightful.  In the daylight, I finally saw how picture perfect Playa Flamenco is.  A white sand beach adorned with palm trees hugs the cerulean blue bay.  I'm not surprised that it ranks among the top beaches in the world.  It was perfect for a morning swim and lounging in the sun.

My morning walk on Playa Flamenco

After a quick lunch, we walked over a mine field to Carlos Rosario beach.  That's right.  Culebra was formerly an uninhabited island used by the Navy for target practice.  A few tanks still stand on Playa Flamenco where they practiced amphibious landings including training for the invasion of Iwo Jima.  The trail to beach is guarded by a sign warning of potentially unexploded munitions in the area.  I decided not to stray too far from the path.

Festive paint job on one of the tanks at Playa Flamenco

Sheffin in the Danger Zone

Playa Carlos Rosario is gorgeous, and a lot less crowded than Playa Flamenco.  outside of a couple families, we were the only ones there.  Some of us snorkeled through the breathtaking reef that ran along the coast.  It's a much different habitat than the sea grasses in Guanica.  Fan, elkhorn, and brain corals create a forest on craggy offshore rocks with ample hiding places for colorful tropical fishes.  Andy and I snorkeled around the point of the bay to a deeper part of the reef.  I caught a glimpse of of something huge out the corner of my eye.  It was a sea turtle!  We watched it glide effortlessly through the water; then we headed back towards the beach.  What we didn't realize was how strongly the current flowed around the point.  Fighting the current on the way back exhausted both of us, but just finding the sea turtle was well worth the swim.

Playa Carlos Rosario

We packed our campsite late in the afternoon before catching a shuttle back to the ferry. Sheffin and I had unofficially declared this weekend "MicSheffles Fest" in honor of our upcoming birthdays.  While we waited for the shuttle we had a couple of rum drinks to celebrate.  With an icy beverage in my hand, I finally felt like I was on a true tropical adventure.  We returned to Fajardo after a pretty uneventful ferry ride.  I don't know if I'll have a chance to go back before I leave, but visiting Culebra again in itself would be worth the return trip to Puerto Rico.  One night was far from enough.  I'm so glad we made the trip happen and can't believe we almost cancelled it.  All over a little rain that never came.

Raging River

Yesterday, Silvia and I spent the morning in the field with the contingency of finishing data entry inside if the rain interfered with seedling work.  It started to pour around lunchtime, so we started our hike out of the grid.  It wasn't the most severe rain we've experienced. But the Sonadora said otherwise.  As we got close to the river, we could see it raging violently over the rocks.  I checked the stream gage at the bridge.  Normally it is at 3.4 feet.  Now, in just a few hours it had risen to 6.5 feet!  It looked so spectacular that I had to hike back with my camera.  Here are the before and after pictures:

Normal Stream flow - January 26, 2012

View from the bridge - March 28, 2012

In the forest, it didn't seem like very much rain, but it must have been falling more heavily higher up the mountain.  It felt very surreal to stand on the bridge as the water raced below me.  I cross that bridge every day, but this time I felt so much smaller.  Like I could be swept away any minute.  Sometimes, there is nothing so humbling as nature in full force.

Oh, I'll give you a "Cheeseburger in Paradise"....

Nestled in the Luquillo kioskos is a restaurant.  One among many.  But if you ever find yourself in Puerto Rico, it is the only one you need to know.  Its a little bar and grill.  No doors or walls on the front or back; you can easily see the crashing waves of the Atlantic ocean.  The tables have empty six-packs as condiment caddies, and there are an abundance of Sharpies to draw on nearly any open surface.  It's casual and welcoming with just a hit of grime.  This is el Jefe Burger Shack.

Tonight a few of us escaped to Luquillo for dinner.  I've been told about the magic of el Jefe, and this was my first encounter.  I loved the atmosphere immediately, but would my burger live up to expectations?  Our waitress took our drink orders.  My mojito was perfect.  Perfect, I tell you!  Minty, limey, slightly sweet, intoxicatingly perfect.  And the beers that the others ordered came in their own cozy little ice pails.

In case you were wondering, this is what a Mojito should look like.

Aaron with his ice cold Coors Light like a good Colorado boy 

Now we placed our orders.  I ordered a 1/3 pound burger, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, avocado, dill pickle, mayo.  Then came the clincher... the test of character...  I asked for it medium rare.  And she said, "Sure."  No hesitation.  No, "We're not really supposed to, but we'll do our best." No questions asked.  Yes.  And I substituted the fries for a side of nachos.  I've seen jaws drop and eyes widen just at the mention of these nachos.  Of course I had to experience them for myself.

And then we waited. And waited.  And waited.  And, my friend, you too will wait when you eat at el Jefe.  But let me tell you this, your wait will not be in vain.  The burger that was set before me was a thing of beauty.  But like any good burger, it was the first bite that got me hooked.  The toasted bun, the perfect balance of toppings, and just as I had requested... a pink medium rare center. Heavenly.

And then there are the nachos.... OOHHHHHH! the nachos.  All other nachos should bow down or cower in shame.  Crispy corn chips adorned with pico de gallo, avocado, and jalepeños.  But the cheese sauce, el Jefe cheese sauce made in house... I've tasted few things so delicious as this.  It took me a while, but I finally pinpointed what I think must the secret ingredient: 100% pure distilled euphoria.  When Jesus throws a party, these are the nachos he serves to his disciples.  All I want is to be buried under a pile of el Jefe nachos so I can eat my way out.  Yes, they are THAT good.

el Jefe Burger and Nachos of GLORY

Two months left on this island... you bet your sweet ass I'll eat at el Jefe again.

Saturday Mornings

I've come to enjoy spending quiet Saturday mornings at El Verde.  It gives me time to relax and focus on my thoughts.  Often they are calm reflections about my surroundings.  This morning was no exception.  A few of us shared breakfast on the porch outside the kitchen.  On this sunny day, we pondered how to fill the whole weekend ahead of us.

Just then, the light around us began to dim as clouds rolled over the mountains.  The sky became much too dark for 11 am.  Something was coming... We listened to a few songs on my computer, sharing new music with each other.  The wind picked up and swirled around the porch.  Something was close...  It looked as if today might be a good day to catch up on all of those movies we have been planning to watch.  

Finally the sky opened and released an intense morning shower.  Then it was over almost as soon as it began.  The birds started singing again, but judging by the look of the sky that won't be the last of today's precipitation.  It might be a good day for movies, but maybe it's also a good day to sit under the porch awning with a cup of tea watching the rain.

The view from the porch